Cable Cast on

13 Mar 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

The cable cast on is another one of my favorite ways to begin a piece of knitting. It produces an attractive rope-like edge, so it’s nice for hats, socks, mittens, collars, and other projects that put the cast-on edge in a potentially prominent position.

This cast on involves both needles. The steps are almost identical to the knit-on cast on. The only difference is that, instead of inserting the right needle into the first stitch, you insert it between the first and second stitches.

Here’s how it’s done:

Notes:
• the first stitch is the one closest to the tip of the needle.
• These instructions assume you’re right handed.

Casting on Knit Stitches

1. Cast on 2 stitches using any cast on you like.
2. Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand if it isn’t there already. The left needle points to the right or possibly up.
3. Insert the tip of the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left hand. The right needle goes in from front to back. It slides under the left, and the needles are roughly perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X.
4. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle. For English knitters, the yarn is wrapped counterclockwise. For continental knitters, the right needle tip starts behind the working yarn and scoops it as the needle moves toward you in the next step. In both cases, the yarn is in the back of the work.
5. Slide the right needle toward you and out of the loop. to keep the working yarn from falling off the needle, place the tip of the right needle on the shaft of the left, and smoothly slide the right needle tip down the length toward the thick base or cable. (Is anyone else getting warm?)
6. Once the new stitch is on the right needle and once the right needle is in front of the left, hold the needles perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X. Both needles are pointing up, and they intersect at the stitch.
7. Move your right hand to the right, stopping when the tips of the two needles are touching each other. To be clear, the needles form a bridge or inverted V. The left one is on the left, and the right one is on the right. The new stitch is still on the right needle, stretching from between the first two stitches on the left.
8. Slip the new stitch from the right needle to the left, and tug on the working yarn to tighten.
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for each additional stitch.

This version of the cast on makes a knit row because everything except Step 3 is what you normally do for a knit stitch.

If you want to cast on purl stitches,, like for ribbing, the process is the same except that you insert the right needle from behind the work and wrap as for a purl stitch.

Casting on Purl Stitches

1. Cast on 2 stitches using any cast on you like.
2. Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand if it isn’t there already. The left needle points to the right or possibly up.
3. Insert the tip of the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left hand. The right needle goes in from back to front. It slides under the left, and the needles are roughly perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X.
4. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle. For English knitters, the yarn is wrapped counterclockwise. For continental knitters, the working yarn is in front of the right needle and goes over the top and down behind the needle. In both cases, the yarn is in the back of the work.
5. Slide the right needle away from you and out of the loop. to keep the working yarn from falling off the needle, place the tip of the right needle on the shaft of the left, and smoothly slide the right needle tip up the length toward the tip of the left. (Is anyone else getting warm?)
6. Once the new stitch is on the right needle and once the right needle is behind the left, hold the needles perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X. Both needles are pointing up, and they intersect at the stitch.
7. Move your right hand to the right, stopping when the tips of the two needles are touching each other. To be clear, the needles form a bridge or inverted V. The left one is on the left, and the right one is on the right. The new stitch is still on the right needle, stretching from between the first two stitches on the left.
8. Slip the new stitch from the right needle to the left, and tug on the working yarn to tighten.
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for each additional stitch.

There you have it: a decorative cast on that is easy to learn. Try it on your next project, especially if the cast-on edge is something other people might notice.

Long-Tail Cast On

06 Mar 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

My favorite way to start a piece of knitting is the long-tail cast on. It produces a row of stitches on a nice sturdy base, which is both attractive and firm enough to keep its shape while I divide the work onto other needles. It’s one of those techniques that is easy and fluid once you get the hang of it, but hard to learn from books and online sources because the explanation is tough going. So … here’s one more attempt at putting the long tail cast on into words:

Some clarification:
A. These instructions assume you’re right handed.
B. This is called the “long tail cast on” because you need to start with a tail of yarn that is long enough to work all of your stitches, but not so long that yarn is being wasted or getting in the way when you’re ready to start knitting. Calculating the length of the tail is an art. The short, get-the-job-done version is to make the tail about 3.25 times the length of the first row, so if the first row is supposed to be 10 inches long, the tail should be about 32.5 inches. This is a little on the generous side, but it’s easier to weave and snip than to have to start over when the yarn runs out. For this example, use a tail that is 1 ft or 30 cm long. This means the slip knot in Step 1 is a foot or 30 cm from the end.
C. Once you feel comfortable with this cast on, you can get started simply by twisting the yarn around the needle instead of making a slip knot.

1. Tie a slip knot around the needle, and hold the needle in your right hand. For this cast on, there is only one needle, and it is always in your right hand.
2. Position your left hand as if you were holding a glass of water. The thumb and index finger form an open circle, and the side of your hand (your pinky) is what would rest on a table if one were in front of you.
3. Lay the yarn over your thumb and index finger. The ball end goes over your index finger. The tail goes over your thumb. The needle is pointing left and resting on the side of your hand, roughly where the thumb and index finger meet.
4. Curl the middle, ring, and pinky fingers of your left hand into the palm, tucking the two hanging strands of yarn into them. When you do, the yarn in your left hand forms a down-pointing triangle. There’s a horizontal line between your thumb and index finger, a diagonal line from index to middle finger, and another diagonal line from thumb to middle finger. The needle is on top of the horizontal line, resting both on the yarn and on the side of your left hand. Use the curled fingers to put a little tension on the yarn as you work the remaining steps.
5. Rotate the needle so that it is pointing at you. It passes over the horizontal line, so the triangle is still fairly in tact.
6. Bring the tip of the needle down, stopping when it touches the fleshy part of your palm at the base of your thumb. The needle is between you and the yarn
7. Slide the tip of the needle up your thumb, stopping when the tip of the needle is on the tip of your thumb. The needle tip has slid behind the leg of the triangle that goes from thumb to middle finger. By the time the tip of the needle reaches the tip of the thumb, it is inside a loop that surrounds the thumb.
8. Describe a circle with the tip of the needle, moving it away from you and over the strand that is between the needle and your index finger, then down behind that strand, then toward you and under that strand, then back to the tip of your thumb.
9. Slide the tip of the needle down your thumb and back into the big loop of yarn surrounding it, stopping when the needle tip reaches the first bend in your thumb.
10. Pull your thumb out of the big loop, and in the same movement, use your thumb to catch and tug on the yarn that is between the needle and your middle finger. The gesture is like opening a pair of scissors to cut. This tug tightens the loop on the needle.
11. Move the needle back to the starting position, on top of the horizontal line of the inverted triangle, and repeat Steps 5 to 11.

As the cast-on becomes familiar, it softens into a series of curves, the needle tip arcing down and up, the thumb bending forward and stretching back, until the movements stop being separate and merge into one graceful sweep.

Asking Stitchers and Counting Rows

22 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Crochet, General, Knitting, Row Counting, Technocrafting

Blindness brings on the most interesting problems. They’re never the sorts of things sighted people think: I can get dressed, clean my house, go to work, and eat just fine, and I deal with other people’s lack of imagination as routinely though rarely as successfully. The problems tend to be in the little things, in the details, where the devil lies, as some would have it. Row counting is a prime example.

I can knit complex lace work while listening to a literary novel I plan to teach or discuss with one of my English teacher friends, but keeping track of which row I’m on, aside from simply observing the pattern, is not so easy. Commercial row counters don’t really work because they have either no tactile markings or tactile markings that are so small they’re hard to distinguish even with super blind fingers. So for ideas, I turned to my yarn council.

The Blind Stitchers Google group is fantastic. I learn a lot from the other yarn crafters on the list. Tips range from the practical to the truly inspired. Here’s a list of row counter substitutes they came up with during several discussions on the subject.

• Add coins or can tabs to a container or baggy.
• Count out X number of pieces of candy and eat one after every row.
• Make little tears along the edge of an index card.
• Move pegs on a cribbage board or Scrabble tray.
• Place one safety pin in hem of shirt or arm of couch for every row.
• Place strings or safety pins in work to mark repeats or X number of rows.
• Slide (Braille) Tags or can tabs on a ring.
• Slide Beads on a string or bracelet.
• Use Brynolf Pocket Counter (discontinued).
• Use abacus.
• Use cell phone app.
• Use PDA (write down the row you are on, deleting and changing the number with each row).
• Use Scorekeeper from American Printing House for the Blind.

So-You-Can-Stick-Your-Fingers-Out Mittens

08 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns

Contributed by Karen Shrade

These are seed stitch mittens with a flap above the palm. I designed them this way because I am lazy. There is no picking up stitches, no button or buttonhole, and no curling problem when you work them flat with two straight needles.

If you want to do them circularly, the numbers don’t change. The top shaping is different, though: you just do a double decrease at the beg and at the halfway point on every other round. Otherwise, it works the same.

I tried them out this weekend and they work quite well. I could slip my fingers out, use a key, or snap my hood, and then retract my fingers quickly into the warmth.

The pattern is written out for women’s mittens, but notes for men’s mittens are included at the bottom.

Materials:
• Worsted weight yarn. I got 2 mittens (easily) out of a 100 g. skein. I used Karen Simply Soft for my first try and then Encore Colorspun for the second. Both worked fine. The colorspun seems a little lighter, though.
• Size 4 (3.5 mm)and 6 (4.5 mm) needles.
• 2 Stitch holders and 2 ring markers

Gauge: Approximately 4 sts to the inch in seed stitch with size 6 needles, but it isn’t critical.

Single Rib Stitch pattern
Row 1: * K1, p1 *.
Row 2: * P1, k1 *.

Seed stitch Pattern
All rows: k1, *p1, k1 *.

With size 4 ndls and worsted weight yarn, cast on 36 sts and single rib for 20 rows (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Change to size 6 ndls and k 1 row, decreasing 1 st at center (35 sts).

Work 9 rows of seed st (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Start the thumb gusset

First row (RS): work 17 sts in seed st, place marker, (p, k, p) into the next st, place marker, work 17 sts in seed st.

Next row: (Keeping in seed stitch pattern) Work 17, slip marker, , p1, k1, p1 slip marker, work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, inc in the first and last stitch between markers (keeping seed stitch pattern), work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, k1, (p1, k1) twice, slip marker, work pattern to end.

Continue in this manner till you have 13 sts between the markers. Then work one wrong side row even.

Thumb:

First row (RS): Work 18, slip 11 sts to a holder, work to end.

Next row: work 17, p2 tog, work to end.

Start the flap:

First row for right mitten (RS): Work 19, slip next 15 sts to another holder, turn and cast on 17 stitches, k1. You have 37 sts on the needle.

First row for left mitten (RS): k1, slip 15 stitches to a holder, turn and cast on 17, seed st to end.

For both mittens: At each end of the cast on section you will work 2 sts together. This keeps it nice and neat.
For the left mitten, work 19, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, k1.
For the right mitten, k1, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, finish in seed stitch.

Now, work on these 35 sts in seed stitch. When 20rows are complete, place markers on each side of the center purl stitch.

Top of mitten

Dec row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, (p1, k1) to 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1; Slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, k2 tog, (p1, k1) to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1: 4 sts decreased.
Dec row 2: K2, (p1, k1) to last st before marker, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1.
Dec row 3: K1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to 3 sts before marker, p2 tog, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to last 3 sts, p2 tog, k1
Dec Row 4: Work in seed stitch even, k1, (p1, k1) to end.
Rep these four rows 3 times: 11 sts rem.

Last row: (K2 tog) twice, sl1, k2 tog, psso, (k2 tog) twice: 5 sts.

Cut yarn and thread through these sts, pulling up tight and fastening off.
Now, go back to the flap stitches. Put them back onto a size 6 needle, and join yarn. Work 14 rows of seed stitch, this time starting and ending with a p stitch. Bind off loosely. Sew the flap to the inside of the mitten. Then sew the side seam of the mitten.

Return to the 11 thumb stitches, and work 12 rows. You will start and end with P1. Last thumb row: K2 tog twice, sl1, K2 tog, Psso, K2 tog twice: 5 sts. Cut yarn and thread through these stitches, pulling tight. Sew seam.

Notes for a Man’s mitten

For a man’s mitten, cast on 40 stitches and rib for 25 rows.

Dec 1 st at center of next row for 39 stitches. You will work the mitten the same way as above.

Thumb gusset will inc to 15 sts and the thumb will be worked on 13 sts.

The flap is worked on 17 sts.

You have to work dec rows 1 and 2 again for the top shaping.

This mitten fit my husband.

I hope you like the mittens.

Winter Wonderland Ice Skate Ornaments

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Crochet, Guest Posts, Patterns

Contributed by: Paulette Vickery

These miniature ice skates make cute holiday package decorations, lapel pins, or Christmas tree or wreath ornaments.

Materials:
• Small amount of Karon Christmas Glitter worsted weight yarn in gold or silver
• 2 jumbo gold or silver paper clips
• Size H crochet hook.
• Tapestry needle

Gauge: Not important to over all size.

Row 1. With long smooth side of paper clip facing down, attach yarn with a slst to the top right end of paper clip. Chain 1. Work 7 sc over paper clip. Chain 1, turn. 7 sc.

Row 2. Sc dec over first 2 stitches. Sc to end of row. Chain 1, turn. 6, sc.

Row 3. Sc in first 4 scs. Chain 1, turn. 4, sc.

Rows 4-7. Work even. Chain 1, turn at end of each row. 4, sc at end of each row.

Finishing:
At end of row 7, the “toe” end of the ice skate, chain 30. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for other ice skate.

Tie ice skates together in a bow, using “lace” at toe end of each skate for ties.

Paulette vickery is the crocheting and knitting editor for Seeing It Our Way, the braille and large print magazine published by Horizons for the Blind.

Clover Rib Socks

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Knitting, Patterns, working in the Round

Sock knitting is my thing. It’s the heel. I can’t get over how magical it is. So I invented a heel, which I call the Petca heel, after a possible patron saint of knitting. Then I discovered it’s very similar to Fleegle’s Heel and concluded that great minds think alike. These cuff-down socks feature that heel.

The stitch pattern is clover rib. It’s a 2×3 rib with a mock cable that reminds me of links in a chain.

Materials
• 2 50-g balls of Comfy Soft Sport
• 2 2.5 mm circs
• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

2×2 Ribbing
Rnd 1 and all rnds: * K2, p2 *.

Clover Rib Stitch
Rnd 1: * p1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1 *.
Rnd 2: * P1, k3, p1 *.
Rnd 3: * P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1 *.
Rnds 4-6: * P1, k3, p1 *.

Socks

make 2.

Cast on 52 sts and join to work in the round.

Cuff

Work 9 rnds of 2×2 ribbing.

Knit 1 rnd.

Next rnd: P2 tog, (* k3, p2; rep to end of ndl, ending k1) 2x: 50 sts.

Work 5 reps of Clover Rib stitch or more if desired.

Petca Heel

The heel increases are worked between the second and third and between the second to last and third to last pattern repeats of theClover Rib stitch. Any increase will do.

Rnd 1: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 2: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 3: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, yo, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 4: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 5: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, yo, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, yo, p1 (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 6: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k1, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 7: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, p1, k1, yo, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k1, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 8: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k2, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 9: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, k2, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k2, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 10: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k2, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k3, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 11: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 12: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.

One repeat of Clover Rib stitch is complete, and the heel increase of Rnds 11 and 12 is identical to that in Rnds 1 and 2.

Continue as established. The increase in Rnds 13 and 14 is like the one in Rnds 3 and 4. the increase in rnds 15 and 16 is like the one in Rnds 5 and 6. Instead of working 6 pattern repeats as between increases, you are now working 8 repeats.

Stop when you’ve increased to 62 sts, finishing with an even rnd, row 4 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Heel Turn

Row 1: K4, skp, k1, turn.
Row 2: P to end of Ndl 1, p4, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, k1, turn.
Row 4: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, p1, turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 till there are 12 sts between the gap and the beg/end of rnd.

Row 5: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, turn.
Row 6: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, turn.

Rep Rows 5 and 6 till 52 sts rem. Each ndl should hold 12 sts on the heel side of the gap and 14 sts on the instep side.

Rnd 7: K to 1 st before the gap, m1 (by inserting the rhn under the horizontal strand between the st just worked and the one about to be worked and knitting through the back of the loop), skp, k to last 11 sts on Ndl 1, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k to 1 st before gap on Ndl 2, m1, k2 tog, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 8: K15, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k15.

You have finished the heel and are ready to start working the foot with Rnd 1 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Foot.

Rnd 1: K15, p1, (clover rib), p1, k15.
Rep Rnd 1 till there are 17, 18 or 19 (small, medium, or large) reps of clover rib stitch down the ankle and instep, starting at the ribbing.

Toe

Place markers after St # 8, 17, 34, and 43. There are invisible markers at the end of each ndl. In all, there are 6 markers.

Rnd 1 and all odd rnds: K.
Rnd 2: K to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x, k to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x: 48 sts.
Rnd 4: * k2 tog, k to marker, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rnd 6: * K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rep Rnds 3-6 till 6 sts rem.

Break yarn, draw tail through live sts, and pull to close hole.

Weave in ends, and wear with style.

Blog Tips

06 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by Ana in General

The following help you find what you need here:

• To jump to the next or previous post, use your screen reader’s heading navigation.
• To find posts that are older or newer than the ones displayed on the screen, use your browser or screen reader to find the word “older” or “newer,” and press enter.
• To read posts on similar topics, use your browser or screen reader to find the Category list near the bottom of the screen, arrow down to the one you’re interested in, and press enter.
• To visit other sites that may be of interest, use your browser or screen reader to find the Blogroll heading, arrow down to the link you want, and press enter.
• To find information on how to learn to knit, check out this post on knitting basics by Crystal.

All patterns and articles posted here are original to their authors, who own the copyright.

Diagonal Stripes Afghan

06 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Colors, Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns

Contributed by Mary Nettleton
marynet@centurytel.net

This afghan had its beginning with a project that my knitting group did for an auction. The group afghan was made in 4 colors with two-color blocks. Then I started to wonder how else the 2-color squares could be arranged. Our grand son was graduating from highschool at about the same time and he wanted black, red and white. I absolutely and unequivocally never give a high-school graduate anything in white so 2 colors were what he got.

the finished afghan made from simple granny squares has bold diagonal stripes. For a similar tactile effect, find a Color B yarn that is also of a different texture from Color A. The project itself is very portable. As I remember it took me about 1 1/2 hours to make 1 square.

Materials:
• 8 skeins each of 2 colors, Plymouth Encore Chunky, Wool-ease Chunky, or any chunky yarn. Designate 1 color as A and the second color as B.
• Needle size: 11 or 13. The size needle is governed by the density of the fabric you prefer.
• Yarn needle for sewing squares together and safety pins or some other convenient method of marking the B half of the squares.

Skill level: easy.

Gauge: not important

Afghan Square:
Make 30

With A, Cast on 3 sts. Leave a generous tail for sewing.

Row 1: Inc1 st in first St, K to end).

Repeat this row until there are 42 sts on the needle.

Break A and pick up B.

Row 2: K1, K2tog, K to end of row.

Repeat this row till 3 sts rem.

Last row: Sl1, K2tog, Pass slip st over and fasten off.

Leave a generous tail for sewing, and place a safety pin near the corner to mark side B of the square.

Assembly;:

The afghan is 5 squares across and 6 down. Find a place where the squares can be laid out and sewn together. A bed works well for this. Start in the lower left-hand corner of the bed.

1. Beginning at the left edge of the bed, position Square 1 so that half A lines up with the lower left-hand corner of the bed.
2. Position square 2 to the right of Sq 1 so that side B lines up with side B of the first square. With one of the B tails, and a yarn needle, pass a thread back and forth in the edge sts.
3. Position Sq 3 to the right of sq 2 with the A sides lining up. Sew as before, using color A tails.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 one more time to attach squares 4 and 5.
5. Returning to the left edge of the afghan, position Sq 6 above sq 1 with the B sides together. Sew as before, using color B tails.
6. Position square 7 to the right of Sq 6, ( with the A sides together and sew in place, using color A tails.
7. Position Sq 8 to the right of sq 7, with B sides together, and sew in place, using color B tails.
8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 one more time to attach Squares 9 and 10.
9. Repeat Steps 1-8 until all 30 squares have been sewn together.

If you sew and nip and tuck the ends as you go, it will be much less trouble later. How do I know this? Of course, if all else fails, ask for sighted help with the positioning or the ends.

Knitting Small Circumferences with Two Circular Needles

06 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Tutorials, working in the Round

Contributed by Paulette Vickery

I love knitting small circumferences, like the crowns of hats or the thumbs of mittens, with 2 circular needles rather than a set of double-pointed needles. Once you get the hang of it, the technique is much easier, less complicated, and not at all prone to having stitches fall off the needles. Plus you never have a little needle slip into the innards of a couch or roll merrily across the floor, managing to stay just out of reach. I’ll explain how to use two circular needles to knit small circumferences with a simple set of step-by-step instructions that will remove all of the confusion from the learning process.

But first, take time to settle into your favorite knitting chair with a glass of your favorite libation at hand. Being comfortable while learning is just as important as the learning process itself. I know that I learn best when I am relaxed and comfortable. Now, let’s do it!

Learning the Process

So that we are all working on the same project, let’s use a 16-inch (41 cm) circular needle to make a simple hat. It doesn’t matter which one. Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for, Join to work in the round, make the brim and the body, then start the decreases for the top. When you get to the part of the hat where you have to use double-pointed needles because the opening is too small to continue on 1 circ, you are ready to start working with the second circular needle. Here is what you need to do in order to use 2 circulars instead of double-pointed needles:

First, divide your stitches onto 2 needles. I like to have 1 needle longer than the other so I can tell where the beginning of the round is. Let’s say that your original needle is the shorter needle and the second one is the longer needle. When you finish putting half of your stitches on the longer needle, the short needle, the one with the working yarn coming out of the first stitch, will be on the right, and the long needle, the one with the other half of the stitches will be on the left.

Now let go of both of the points of the short (right-hand) needle. Just slide those stitches to the middle of the cable so they won’t go anywhere.

next grab both ends of the long needle (the one on your left). First, take hold of the closest tip. This will be your left-hand needle. Then take hold of the other tip, which is probably dangling toward the floor. Pull it toward you around the hat so it is in your right hand. This is now your right-hand needle.

Let’s pause for a moment to think about what we’ve got.
• You have the short needle in the back. The stitches you are not working right now are centered on the cable, and both points are pushed somewhere out of the way. The working yarn is hanging down from the cable on your right side. It’s not near the point of the needle because you pushed your stitches to the center of the cable to keep them safe.
• You also have your long needle. It’s now in front. It’s your current working needle and the needle at the beginning of the round. You have the point with the stitches on it in your left hand, and you have the empty point in your right hand.

It’s time to start knitting. Slip the point of your right hand needle into the first stitch on your left-hand needle like you usually do. To keep things simple, let’s say you’re working a knit stitch. Pretend the yarn coming from the cable of the shorter needle in the back is coming out of the needle that you are using, and just knit the stitch as usual, being sure to give the working yarn a little extra tug afterward to make the stitches nice and snug and to avoid an unwanted gap where the needles meet. Now the yarn really is coming out of the stitch on the needle that you are using, so continue knitting and work all of the stitches on the long needle.

Repeat the process. Only this time the current working needle will be the short one, and you will be working the second half of the round. So the steps are these:

• Drop both points of the long needle and center the stitches in the middle of the cable.
• Pick up both of the points of the new short needle, the one that was In the back, which is now on your left, because you have shifted things around a bit.
• Push the stitches up to the tip of the closest needle, which is now your left-hand needle.
• Pull the other end of the needle around so it is now your right-hand needle.
• Work all of the stitches on the short needle.

And you are ready to do it again. This time, you will have the long needle as the current working needle, and when you begin knitting the stitches on that needle, you will be starting a new round. Simple.

Starting a Project with Two Circs

If you decide to work the entire hat using 2 circular needles, or if you are knitting a miniature hat or some other small project, here is how to begin a project with 2 circular needles. Remember to use 2 different needle lengths to make it easier to recognize the beginning of the round:

Using the shorter needle, cast on the number of stitches you need plus 1 extra stitch. Then slide all of the stitches to the other end of the needle so that the first stitch cast on is nearest the tip.

Beginning with the first stitch you cast on, slip the first half of the stitches onto the longer needle. You will have one half of the stitches on the short needle and the other half of the stitches on the long needle, but they will still not be joined to form a circle.

To close the circle, slide both sets of stitches to the opposite end of the needles. Be sure the stitches are all facing the same direction. You can do this by placing your hands at opposite ends of the work and moving them toward each other to make sure there are no twists. The first stitch cast on and the extra last stitch cast on are beside each other near the needle tips. The tips are lying side-by-side close enough together for you to carefully lift the extra stitch from the short needle across the gap to the long needle.

So now, the first 2 stitches on the long needle are the first stitch you cast on and the extra stitch. Using only the tips of the long needle, knit these 2 stitches together to join the circle and get rid of the extra stitch. For a really smooth join, knit those 2 stitches together using both the working yarn and the tail held together as a single strand of yarn. Then still using both points of the long needle and only the working yarn, continue working across the stitches on that needle to finish the first half of the round.

Next, just like we did before, drop the points of the long needle, sliding the stitches to the middle of the cable to keep them safe. Then pick up both points of the short needle, and work across the other half of the stitches on that needle to finish the first round.

It really isn’t hard. After you do a few rounds, you will probably wonder why you ever used those pesky double-pointed needles in the first place, and you will use your favorite libation to celebrate your new skill!

This article was originally published in Seeing It Our Way, a Braille magazine published by Horizons for the Blind, and has been reprinted with minor editing by permission of the author, who is one of the magazine’s contributors.

the Bag Keeper

06 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns, working in the Round

Contributed by Chris Cooke

Bag Keeper

Storing plastic grocery bags can be a puzzle. They need to be out of the way, but they also need to be handy so we can use them to line our waste baskets.

The bag keeper is an elongated pouch with a loop at the top and a small hole at the bottom. Use the loop to hang it on the back of a door. Roll up the plastic bags and push them in through the top. Then when you need one, pull it out through the hole at the bottom.

Makes a nice gift.

Materials

• 2 50G balls worsted weight cotton
• 1 Size US 8 16-inch circular needle and either DPN’s in the same size or another circular when decreasing
• 1 stitch marker
• small amount of narrow elastic for hanger

Gauge: 4.5 sts/inch in stockinette stitch.

Beginning at the top:

Cast on 32 sts. Join for knitting in the round, and work ribbing for four rounds–either k1-p1 or k2-p2.

Increase Rounds

Next rnd (eyelets): * K4, yo *: 40 sts.

Next 4 rnds: Increase 4 sts evenly each round by knitting into the front and back of the stitch. The last round will have 56 sts.

Body

Next: K around for 18 inches from eyelet rnd.

Decrease rounds:

Rnd 1: * K5, k2tog * around: 48 sts.
Rnd 2: * K4, ssk * around: 40 sts.
Rnd 3: * K3, k2tog * around: 32 sts.
Rnd 4: * K2 ssk * around: 24 sts.

Next 4 rnds: Ribbing as for top.

Bind off loosely in knit.

Finishing:
• Weave in ends.
• Thread a ribbon through the yo’s at the top of the bag keeper if you like.
• Knit or sew an elastic loop for hanging.

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