Learning to Love the Loom

24 Mar 2011 2 Comments

by Ana in Basics, Guest Posts, Loom Knitting

Contributed by Renee Van Hoy

Why would you want to try loom knitting?

Well, it is fun, but that’s not the only reason. People who are challenged by reading patterns for crochet or knitting often find they can loom knit without difficulty. People who have trouble with their fingers, hands, and wrists often find loom knitting causes less pain, which is a huge plus. People who want simple and fast can find projects that suit them and so can people who like projects that are detailed and complicated.

How can you start?

Looms come in a wide variety of sizes and materials. They also come in different gauges just like knitting needles and crochet hooks. Most loom knitters start with the Knifty Knitter, a set of 4 round rings found at local craft stores. This basic set is a good way to try loom knitting for a small investment. When you find that you love to loom, you can expand your loom collection dramatically.

Where can you find patterns?

Although there are not nearly as many patterns and tutorials available for loom knitting as for other needle arts, there are enough to keep you busy for a very long time.

For books about loom knitting, Bookshare is a great resource. Here are some titles to start with:

• The Loom Knitting Primer
• Learn New Stitches On Circle Looms
• Learn to Knit Cables On Looms
• Round Loom Knitting Patterns
• Loom Knitting Pattern Book
• Learn to Knit On Circle Looms
• Knifty Knitter Booklet 2
• Knitting With The Knifty Knitter

For contact with other loomers, there is a very active on-line community ready to help the new loomer. The Knifty Knitter Loom Group at Yahoo Groups is hosted by a talented blind loom knitter from the UK, Helen Jacobs-Grant. Helen spins her own yarn, dyes it in natural dyes, and looms it into wonderful creations. She also writes and shares many of her patterns, and gives freely of her loom knowledge.

For an online looming reference, go to Loom Knitting Help. While there are many other tutorials for loom knitters on the internet, most of them use video clips or PDF files. Loom Knitting Help has tutorials that can be accessed with a screen reader. There is so much information that the site can be overwhelming at first, but it’s worth getting to know as it’s a great place to find looming tips and instructions.

For individual patterns, check loom knitting blogs or Ravelry. The majority are free, with some of the more complex offered for sale. The patterns often come as PDF files. Some of these files are accessible as is, but if my screen reader cannot work with them, I can often access them by using the “read aloud” function in Acrobat Reader. If I still can’t access the content, I have found that the pattern authors are usually happy to send me a plain text file on request.

These are some of my favorite pattern writers:

The Loom Lady: Brenda specializes in patterns for small toys and decorations, and has created “loomchet” a loomed version of crochet.

Kelly Knits: Kelly has written wonderful patterns focusing on Intarsia and designs within the loomed fabric.

Bev’s Country Cottage Loom Page: Bev has put together some great lists of loom patterns, and has an especially nice collection of baby patterns and patterns for the beginning loom knitter.

Invisible Loom and Craft: Well, this is my own blog. I focus on loom knitting for the visually impaired and blind, and offer over 30 patterns. The patterns come as large print PDF files, but just contact me and I will send a plain text version. My goal has been to push the boundaries of loom knitting, and I have focused on lace patterns for the past year.

As with other stitch arts, loom knitting can be as easy or as complex as you want it to be. There are many reasons to try it, inexpensive looms to start with, and lots of resources to get yourself going. So why not give it a try?

The Simple or Half Hitch Cast On

17 Mar 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

Probably the easiest cast on is the method called the simple or half hitch cast on. It produces a row of loose stitches and works up so quickly that it’s my preferred method for swatches and other obscenities. If you know the long-tail cast on, the half hitch is the first part of that, and no long tail is needed.

Here’s how it’s done:

Note: these instructions assume you’re right-handed.

1. Tie a slip knot around the needle, and hold the needle in your right hand. For this cast on, there is only one needle, and it is always in your right hand.
2. Position your left hand as if you were holding a glass of water. The thumb and index finger form an open circle, and the side of your hand (your pinky) is what would rest on the table if one were in front of you.
3. Lay the yarn over your thumb and index finger. The ball end goes over your index finger. The tail goes over your thumb. The needle is pointing left and resting on the side of your hand, roughly where the thumb and index finger meet.
4. Curl the middle, ring, and pinky fingers of your left hand into the palm, tucking the two hanging strands of yarn into them. When you do, the yarn in your left hand forms a down-pointing triangle. There’s a horizontal line between your thumb and index finger, a diagonal line from index to middle finger, and another diagonal line from thumb to middle finger. The needle is on top of the horizontal line, resting both on the yarn and on the side of your left hand. Use the curled fingers to put a little tension on the yarn as you work the remaining steps.
5. Rotate the needle so that it is pointing at you. It passes over the horizontal line, so the triangle is still fairly in tact.
6. Bring the tip of the needle down, stopping when it touches the fleshy part of your palm at the base of your thumb. The needle is between you and the yarn.
7. Slide the tip of the needle up your thumb, stopping when the tip of the needle is on the tip of your thumb. The needle tip has slid behind the leg of the triangle that goes from thumb to middle finger. By the time the tip of the needle reaches the tip of the thumb, it is inside a loop that surrounds the thumb.
8. Pull your thumb out of the loop, and in the same movement, use your thumb to catch and tug on the yarn that is between the needle and your middle finger. The gesture is like opening a pair of scissors to cut. This tug tightens the loop on the needle.
9. Move the needle back to the starting position, on top of the horizontal line of the inverted triangle, and repeat Steps 5 to 8.
10. Knit across the cast-on stitches.

Step 10 is important. The cast-on stitches themselves are so loose that they don’t really keep their shape when you divide them over several needles or even drop them in a bag to return to later, so working the first row, preferably with knit stitches firms them up.

I often use this cast on when I need to add stitches to the middle or end of a row because the point where the cast on meets the rest of the work is tidier than with other methods.

Another plus is that this cast on can easily become a provisional cast on (a topic to be covered in detail later). In a nutshell, after Step 9, you would run a second needle between the stitches that have been cast on and leave it there until it’s time to knit from that needle.

With this cast on in your bag of tricks, you have a simple and serviceable method for starting ordinary work and a secret weapon for doing more complex knitting.

Cable Cast on

13 Mar 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

The cable cast on is another one of my favorite ways to begin a piece of knitting. It produces an attractive rope-like edge, so it’s nice for hats, socks, mittens, collars, and other projects that put the cast-on edge in a potentially prominent position.

This cast on involves both needles. The steps are almost identical to the knit-on cast on. The only difference is that, instead of inserting the right needle into the first stitch, you insert it between the first and second stitches.

Here’s how it’s done:

Notes:
• the first stitch is the one closest to the tip of the needle.
• These instructions assume you’re right handed.

Casting on Knit Stitches

1. Cast on 2 stitches using any cast on you like.
2. Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand if it isn’t there already. The left needle points to the right or possibly up.
3. Insert the tip of the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left hand. The right needle goes in from front to back. It slides under the left, and the needles are roughly perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X.
4. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle. For English knitters, the yarn is wrapped counterclockwise. For continental knitters, the right needle tip starts behind the working yarn and scoops it as the needle moves toward you in the next step. In both cases, the yarn is in the back of the work.
5. Slide the right needle toward you and out of the loop. to keep the working yarn from falling off the needle, place the tip of the right needle on the shaft of the left, and smoothly slide the right needle tip down the length toward the thick base or cable. (Is anyone else getting warm?)
6. Once the new stitch is on the right needle and once the right needle is in front of the left, hold the needles perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X. Both needles are pointing up, and they intersect at the stitch.
7. Move your right hand to the right, stopping when the tips of the two needles are touching each other. To be clear, the needles form a bridge or inverted V. The left one is on the left, and the right one is on the right. The new stitch is still on the right needle, stretching from between the first two stitches on the left.
8. Slip the new stitch from the right needle to the left, and tug on the working yarn to tighten.
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for each additional stitch.

This version of the cast on makes a knit row because everything except Step 3 is what you normally do for a knit stitch.

If you want to cast on purl stitches,, like for ribbing, the process is the same except that you insert the right needle from behind the work and wrap as for a purl stitch.

Casting on Purl Stitches

1. Cast on 2 stitches using any cast on you like.
2. Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand if it isn’t there already. The left needle points to the right or possibly up.
3. Insert the tip of the right needle between the first and second stitches on the left hand. The right needle goes in from back to front. It slides under the left, and the needles are roughly perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X.
4. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle. For English knitters, the yarn is wrapped counterclockwise. For continental knitters, the working yarn is in front of the right needle and goes over the top and down behind the needle. In both cases, the yarn is in the back of the work.
5. Slide the right needle away from you and out of the loop. to keep the working yarn from falling off the needle, place the tip of the right needle on the shaft of the left, and smoothly slide the right needle tip up the length toward the tip of the left. (Is anyone else getting warm?)
6. Once the new stitch is on the right needle and once the right needle is behind the left, hold the needles perpendicular to each other, forming a cross or an X. Both needles are pointing up, and they intersect at the stitch.
7. Move your right hand to the right, stopping when the tips of the two needles are touching each other. To be clear, the needles form a bridge or inverted V. The left one is on the left, and the right one is on the right. The new stitch is still on the right needle, stretching from between the first two stitches on the left.
8. Slip the new stitch from the right needle to the left, and tug on the working yarn to tighten.
9. Repeat Steps 3-8 for each additional stitch.

There you have it: a decorative cast on that is easy to learn. Try it on your next project, especially if the cast-on edge is something other people might notice.

Long-Tail Cast On

06 Mar 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

My favorite way to start a piece of knitting is the long-tail cast on. It produces a row of stitches on a nice sturdy base, which is both attractive and firm enough to keep its shape while I divide the work onto other needles. It’s one of those techniques that is easy and fluid once you get the hang of it, but hard to learn from books and online sources because the explanation is tough going. So … here’s one more attempt at putting the long tail cast on into words:

Some clarification:
A. These instructions assume you’re right handed.
B. This is called the “long tail cast on” because you need to start with a tail of yarn that is long enough to work all of your stitches, but not so long that yarn is being wasted or getting in the way when you’re ready to start knitting. Calculating the length of the tail is an art. The short, get-the-job-done version is to make the tail about 3.25 times the length of the first row, so if the first row is supposed to be 10 inches long, the tail should be about 32.5 inches. This is a little on the generous side, but it’s easier to weave and snip than to have to start over when the yarn runs out. For this example, use a tail that is 1 ft or 30 cm long. This means the slip knot in Step 1 is a foot or 30 cm from the end.
C. Once you feel comfortable with this cast on, you can get started simply by twisting the yarn around the needle instead of making a slip knot.

1. Tie a slip knot around the needle, and hold the needle in your right hand. For this cast on, there is only one needle, and it is always in your right hand.
2. Position your left hand as if you were holding a glass of water. The thumb and index finger form an open circle, and the side of your hand (your pinky) is what would rest on a table if one were in front of you.
3. Lay the yarn over your thumb and index finger. The ball end goes over your index finger. The tail goes over your thumb. The needle is pointing left and resting on the side of your hand, roughly where the thumb and index finger meet.
4. Curl the middle, ring, and pinky fingers of your left hand into the palm, tucking the two hanging strands of yarn into them. When you do, the yarn in your left hand forms a down-pointing triangle. There’s a horizontal line between your thumb and index finger, a diagonal line from index to middle finger, and another diagonal line from thumb to middle finger. The needle is on top of the horizontal line, resting both on the yarn and on the side of your left hand. Use the curled fingers to put a little tension on the yarn as you work the remaining steps.
5. Rotate the needle so that it is pointing at you. It passes over the horizontal line, so the triangle is still fairly in tact.
6. Bring the tip of the needle down, stopping when it touches the fleshy part of your palm at the base of your thumb. The needle is between you and the yarn
7. Slide the tip of the needle up your thumb, stopping when the tip of the needle is on the tip of your thumb. The needle tip has slid behind the leg of the triangle that goes from thumb to middle finger. By the time the tip of the needle reaches the tip of the thumb, it is inside a loop that surrounds the thumb.
8. Describe a circle with the tip of the needle, moving it away from you and over the strand that is between the needle and your index finger, then down behind that strand, then toward you and under that strand, then back to the tip of your thumb.
9. Slide the tip of the needle down your thumb and back into the big loop of yarn surrounding it, stopping when the needle tip reaches the first bend in your thumb.
10. Pull your thumb out of the big loop, and in the same movement, use your thumb to catch and tug on the yarn that is between the needle and your middle finger. The gesture is like opening a pair of scissors to cut. This tug tightens the loop on the needle.
11. Move the needle back to the starting position, on top of the horizontal line of the inverted triangle, and repeat Steps 5 to 11.

As the cast-on becomes familiar, it softens into a series of curves, the needle tip arcing down and up, the thumb bending forward and stretching back, until the movements stop being separate and merge into one graceful sweep.

Tutorial: Standard Bind Off

04 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by crystal in Basics, Binding Off, Knitting, Tutorials

Binding off is the term used for finishing off the last row of stitches so they don’t unravel when you’re done knitting. Another term used for the same thing is casting off. Just as with casting on there are many different ways to bind off. This method is called binding off in knit. Binding off like this generally makes a tight bind off. You’ll probably want to use a needle 2 or 3 sizes larger to keep from making it too tight. You can also try to make your stitches looser as you go.

HOW TO BIND OFF

Step 1

Knit the first two stitches.

Step 2

Use the left needle tip to pick up the first stitch you knitted and draw it back over the second stitch and completely off the needle. This will leave only one stitch on the right needle. To pick up the stitch place the left needle point through the front of the stitch from left to right. The left needle tip should stay in front of the right needle. Lift the stitch up and over the stitch to the left. At the same time lift the stitch completely off the right needle while making sure the left stitch stays on the right needle.

Step 3

Knit the next stitch on the left needle. You should now have two stitches on the right needle.

Step 4

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have knit and bound off each stitch on the left needle. You should have only one stitch remaining on the right needle.

Step 5

Cut yarn and draw it through the last loop. Pull it snug.

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve bound off your work. With all the skills you have learned you can begin making things for yourself. Most people start with simple scarves and washcloths.

Tutorial: Purl Stitch

04 Feb 2011 3 Comments

by crystal in Basics, Knitting, Tutorials

To purl a stitch is the opposite of knitting a stitch. When you purl it makes the bump on the front of the work while the knit stitch makes the bump on the back. All knitting is made of combinations of these two stitches.

HOW TO MAKE A PURL Stitch

Step 1

Insert the right needle tip into the stitch you want to purl. Insert the point of the needle into the stitch from right to left. Be sure to keep the right needle tip in front of the left needle.

 

Step 2

Holding the right needle in place with your left thumb, wrap the yarn around the tip of the right needle in a counter clockwise direction. Imagine the clock is laying face up in your lap with the 12 on your knees and the 6 at your stomach. Your yarn should end up back on the right side of the needle.

Step 3

Carefully push the loop of yarn through the stitch on the left needle. You will be pushing the tip of the right needle through the stitch and underneath the needle. When your right needle tip comes out the back it should have one stitch on it.

Step 4

Gently push the stitch you just went through off of the left needle while making sure to keep the stitch you just made in place on the right needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve made your first purl stitch. Continue purling all the stitches in the row. When you knit all the even numbered rows and purl all the odd numbered rows it is called stockinet stitch. This is the stitch pattern that gives you that nice flat “fabric” look.  

To learn how to make a knit stitch see Tutorial: Knit Stitch

To learn how to bind off see Tutorial: Binding Off

Tutorial: knit Stitch

04 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by crystal in Basics, Knitting, Tutorials

In knitting there are really only two stitches. You knit and you purl. Everything is made with variations of these two stitches. The knit stitch puts a bump on the back of your work while the purl stitch puts the bump on the front of your work. Once you learn these two stitches you will be on your way to knitting whatever you want.

 

HOW TO MAKE A KNIT STITCH

Step 1

Cast on enough stitches to practice with. Try about 10 at a time to start. To learn how to cast on see Tutorial: Casting On

Step 2

Insert the empty right needle into the first stitch on the left needle. Your first stitch is the one closest to the tip of the needle. Place the point of the right needle into the first stitch from the front left side of the stitch, go under the left needle and come out the back on the right side of the stitch. This is the same way you insert the needle when you use the knitted cast on.

 

Step 3

Holding the right needle in place with your left index finger, wrap your yarn around the right needle tip in a counter clockwise direction. Imagine the clock is laying face up on your lap with the 12 on your knees and the 6 at your stomach. Your yarn should end up back on the right side of the needle.

Step 4

Use the right needle tip to pull the yarn through the stitch. This is where the technique changes from how you cast on. Do not keep pulling the yarn. Stop pulling as soon  as you are through the stitch.

Step 5

Gently push the first stitch off the left needle while making sure you keep the stitch you just made on the right needle. If you cast on 10 stitches you should now have 9 on the left needle and 1 on the right.

 

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve completed one knit stitch. Continue repeating steps 2 through 5 until you’ve knitted all 10 stitches. Then just move the full right needle to your left hand and go again. Knit every row for practice. Knitting every row is called garter stitch. Try to keep your stitches uniform. They should be not too tight to slide easily and not so loose they are sloppy. Most beginners have a problem with making their knit stitches too tight. Just relax your hands. Try to have faith that the stitches will appear like you want them too. If you need to in the beginning wiggle your just formed stitches a little to loosen them up. It is much easier to knit the next row if your stitches will slide a little. Using aluminum needles will also help. Wood, plastic and bamboo needles have more “grip” and yarn doesn’t slide as easily on them as it does on the aluminum ones. When you are more comfortable with knitting you can experiment with different types of needles before you buy your permanent collection.

To learn how to make a purl stitch see Tutorial: Purl Stitch

To learn how to bind off see Tutorial: Binding Off

Tutorial: Knit-on Cast On

04 Feb 2011 4 Comments

by crystal in Basics, Casting On, Knitting, Tutorials

 Casting on is the term used in knitting for setting up your first row of stitches. There are many different ways to cast on. These instructions are for the first method I learned. I would recommend using slightly larger needles to learn how to cast on. Something in the size range of US 9 to 11 should be good. You’ll also need some scrap yarn to practice with. Any simple yarn such as Cascade 220, Red Heart or Simply Soft will do. Don’t use anything too fluffy or fuzzy for your first time. You will have plenty of time later to experiment with different yarns.

Knit On Cast On

Special trick for understanding step 3. Do this before beginning step 1. Especially for blind people.

Hold both needles together so that the points are facing up toward the ceiling. Place slip knot over both needles and hold your yarn coming from the ball to the right side of the needles. Pull the yarn so the slip knot is snug. Hold both needles in your right hand with your thumb holding the slip knot in place. Twist the needle on the left so that it crosses in front of the one on the right. You should have an X shape. This is the way your stitch should look after step 3. Take special note of how you would have to insert the right needle to achieve the same affect. Remove the slip knot and begin with step 1.

Step 1

Make a slip knot. To learn how to make a slip knot see Tutorial: Slip Knot

Step 2

Place slip knot on left hand needle and adjust to fit. This will be considered your first stitch. Do not tighten it too much. You need to be able to get your other needle through it too.

Step 3

Insert the point of the left hand needle through the stitch from front to back. The right needle should be underneath the left needle. See Special trick above. Needles should be crossed about 1 or 2 inches from the tips.

Step 4

Use your left index finger to hold the right needle in place and let go with your right hand.

Step 5

With your right hand wrap the yarn coming from the ball around the

Right hand needle tip in a counter clockwise direction. Imagine the clock is laying face up on your lap with the 12 on your knees and the 6 at your stomach. The end of the yarn should end up back on the right side of the needle. Then drop the yarn and put your right hand back on the right needle.

Step 6

Pull the wrapped yarn through the loop on the left needle with the right needle tip. It helps if you pull the needles apart just a wee bit so that your wrapped yarn can get in between them. Put the needles back together and then keep the right needle tip lightly touching the left needle continuously as you draw it through the stitch to keep from losing your yarn. Use your left index finger to hold the stitch on your left needle in place.

Step 7

Keep pulling the yarn until you have about 3 inches between the needles. Rotate the needles so that they are parallel to each other with both points pointing at the ceiling. This should not take a very big motion.  You should be able to hold them about 3 inches apart without much give in the yarn between the needles. Hold the needles so that your index fingers and thumbs are holding the stitches on each needle.

 

Step 8

Being sure to hold your loops in place turn the left needle clockwise so that it points straight to the right. You’ll need to hold the needles so that the yarn stays taught. Your left needle tip will be pointing at your right needle.

Step 9

Put the point of the left needle through the large loop on the right needle from the front. It helps if you press the loop open a little by pushing the yarn up with your right thumb while still holding the stitch in place from behind the needle with your index finger.

 

Step 10

Pull your right needle out of the loop while making sure the loop stays on the left needle. Snug up the stitch by pulling on the yarn coming from the ball. You should have 2 stitches on the left needle and none on the right needle.

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve made your first cast on stitch. Repeat steps 3 through 10 to cast on more stitches. Always be sure to insert the right needle into the last stitch from the front left side of the stitch.

To learn how to make a knit stitch check out the following link.

Tutorial: Slip Knot

04 Feb 2011 3 Comments

by crystal in Basics, Crochet, Knitting, Tutorials

Slip knots are used in both knitting and crochet. In knitting the slip knot is the first stitch of your cast on just as in crochet the slip knot is the first stitch of your starter chain. The slip knot is made to “slip” so that you can adjust it to fit any needle. It’s also convenient that it doesn’t leave a permanent knot in the yarn if you need to pull it out. The only material you need is yarn to practice with. I always find that instructions make more sense when you are actually attempting them with yarn in hand. There are a lot of steps but I’ve described exactly how I move my hands to make a slip knot. It becomes second nature very quickly. You can do it with your eyes closed.

HOW TO MAKE A SLIP KNOT

Step 1

Hold your right hand flat with your palm facing your body. Your arm should be parallel with the floor.

Step 2

Bend your ring and pinky fingers toward your palm so they will be out of the way. Your index and middle fingers should be pointing to the left. They will be straight and held together.

Step 3

Place a strand of yarn over your index and middle fingers so that the cut end is pointing down. Leave about 6 inches hanging down. You should have the short end of the yarn hanging in front of your fingers and the long end hanging down behind them. The long end will usually be attached to the ball of yarn you’re working from.

Step 4

Keeping the yarn hooked over your right hand fingers, hold the strands of yarn with your left hand so that with your palm facing down the long end of the yarn goes down between your left index and middle fingers and the short end of the yarn is held to the side of your index finger with your thumb. This is easily done by holding both strands of yarn together with your left hand and placing your index finger through the open space between the strands. Make sure not to twist the strands. You should have about two inches of yarn in the space between your left and right hands.

Step 5

Twist your right hand toward your body so that your palm is facing down. Be sure to keep the yarn looped around your index and middle fingers. You may have to bend them slightly to keep from losing the loop of yarn.

Step 6

This is the tricky part. You have to grab the long end of the yarn (The one that is probably attached to the ball) and pull it through the loop you have made on the fingers of your right hand. I have broken this step down into 4 separate parts to make it clearer.

6A: While Still holding the yarn in your left hand as in step 4, spread your right index and middle fingers about an inch apart. The loop of yarn should be positioned on the knuckles in the center of your index and middle fingers.

6B: Use the middle finger of your right hand to hook the top strand of yarn and pull it through the loop of yarn on your right hand by holding it between the tips of your middle and index fingers. The top strand should be the long or “attached” strand. It should be on top both as in on top of the short strand where they cross and above the short strand as positioned in your left hand.

6C: Be sure not to hold the “top” or long strand tightly between your left index and middle fingers. It has to be able to slide. Do be sure to hold the “bottom” or short end tightly to the side of your index finger with your thumb.

6D: Pull the loop snug.

Note: You’ll be able to change the size of your slip knot to fit whatever needle you want by pulling the long strand. If it adjusts by pulling on the short strand you’ve pulled the wrong strand through the loop.

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve made your very first slip knot. How to make a slip knot is the first thing you need to know to start knitting or crocheting. To learn more see the links below.

Tutorial: Casting On

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