You Do What You Do

17 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by crystal in Crochet, General, Knitting

I love making baby blankets. It’s really gratifying to give a handmade blanket to an expectant or new mother when you know she really appreciates the time you put into it.

Recently, I’ve been brainstorming ideas for two new baby blankets. One is for a friend in Charlotte. This one isn’t too hard; I’m just waiting to find out if it’s a boy or a girl. I have a couple patterns picked out to choose from as soon as I know.

The second one is for my closest cousin who is having a girl this summer. I crocheted a Blanket for her first born 8 years ago. He used his blanket so well that it was eventually full of holes. She patched it for a while but soon it was a hopeless mess. The same thing happened to the blanket I made for her daughter 3 years ago. Now, in hindsight it occurs to me that maybe I shouldn’t have used the exact same yarn and basically the same pattern if I wanted the second one to last longer. One of my favorite sayings is, “You do what you do, and you get what you get.” Basically, you can always expect the same results from the same actions.

This time, I’m trying to be a little smarter about it. I still want to crochet the blanket for the sake of continuity and it can’t take too long to make. I have my own new baby and not as much time these days. I think I’ll double strand the yarn and make the gauge a little tighter. I’ll also give my cousin some special washing instructions.

I spent some time looking for a pattern that might fit all these criteria and it really just takes too long sometimes. I decided it would be much more interesting and fun to make up my own pattern. I have the basic idea in my head already so I’ll probably get started tonight.

I’ll keep track as I go and share the pattern after I give the blanket to my cousin. Maybe this one will last longer but if it doesn’t, that’s ok too. At least I know it will be loved and appreciated.

Ravelry Tutorial: Adding A Project

16 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by crystal in Crochet, Knitting, Technocrafting, Tutorials

One of my favorite Ravelry features is the project page. You can add a project and include details that might be needed later. What size needles did I use on that pair of socks that fit so well? Which pair of needle tips was I using on that sweater before I took them for something else? Which yarn did I use to make that cuddly baby blanket? If you keep track of your projects with Ravelry, all these questions and more can be answered easily.

You can also view other people’s projects on Ravelry. If someone else has made the same sweater you are working on, you can see what they did and read their notes about the project. This can be helpful if you run across a tricky spot or something doesn’t seem quite right. I usually glance through the completed projects before I start something new to see if there are any common problems to watch for.

In this post, I’ll explain how to add a project and share a few tips for adding the details for your project.

Adding A Project

 

1-      Go to Ravelry and log in if you’re not already.

2-      Go to the top of the page and arrow down until you find the link that says, “My Notebook” and press enter.

3-      Use your screen reader to find the link that says ”Add Project” and press enter. You can use the links list or spend some time exploring to find the link. It will be in the list of things under the first heading.

4-      The first page that comes up allows you to name your project and link to Ravelry’s pattern database. First, type the project name into the form field. This can be whatever you want it to be. You will also be able to change it later if you want.

5-      Now select the specific craft for this project.

6-      Check the box before the source for your pattern.

7-      In the next form field, type the name of the pattern you used. Try to make it as close to the actual pattern name as possible. Ravelry is going to do a search so you can link to the pattern in their database.

8-      Type the name of the pattern source in the last form field. You can leave this blank if you want but it will help to find the pattern if it has a generic name.

9-      Press the continue button.

10-   Now you will be on the pattern search page. The name of the pattern you typed on the last page will be automatically filled in the search box. Arrow down past the search button and you will find the list of patterns that have already been pulled up. Click on the link after the correct pattern that says “Choose This Pattern.” If it doesn’t show up right away you can change the text in the search box to try again.

Adding Project Details

 

Once you’ve linked to the pattern in Ravelry’s database you will be on your project page. On this page you can add as many or as few details as you would like. The form fields are self-explanatory. The only part I’ve found inaccessible lately is where you enter the needle size. When I click on “Add Needle” nothing happens. The same thing happens when I click on the “Add Yarn” link but if I save changes and come back to edit details, the form fields for the yarn details show up so don’t click on these more than once unless you want to add more than one yarn. The “Add Needle” link used to work the same way but something has changed. I’ll contact Ravelry to try to get something done about it and I’ll update this post if anything changes. In the meantime, I just make a note of the needle size in the notes section.

You can also link to Ravelry’s yarn database the same way you linked to the pattern database. Enter the name of the yarn in the yarn form field and tab to the next link and press enter. Then click on the name of the yarn you want to link to. This will automatically fill in the details for the yarn. You can add additional information like the color way, how many skeins you used and purchasing details.

One last note is about finding the drop boxes to fill in the start and finish dates for your project. These drop boxes are found after the “Save Changes” button so arrow down to add these details. Also remember that you can leave anything you don’t want to fill out blank.

Ravelry is a very large website so please don’t get discouraged if you have trouble finding what you want at first. Spend some time looking around to learn what there is on each page. I could explain exactly what is on every page but we would be here all day and it would take all the adventure out of it. Have fun exploring and I’ll be back soon with more posts to help.

Born To Knit

15 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by crystal in Crochet, Guest Posts, Knitting

Contributed by Marjorie Arnott

I generally tell people when they ask me how I learned to knit that I was born with a pair of knitting needles in my hands instead of a silver spoon!!        

I was born in a tiny village in the North of Scotland where most of the menfolk worked on fishing boats, etc. so it was very common for the womenfolk of the village to make warm aran style sweaters for their husbands, brothers and uncles who spent a lot of time at sea under very cold conditions.

I could make simple garter stitch scarves or squares by the time I was six years old. However, I went to the Royal Blind School in Edinburgh when i was 13 years old and we had the most fantastic knitting teacher. Up until then I thought I was a relatively good knitter, but Miss Duffin taught me so much. We were having a class end of term exam so as my sister just had a little girl i decided I would make a little dress, my first major project. When Miss Duffin began checking our work she called me over and told me I had done excellent work, but there was one tiny flaw. She took my hand and showed me the tiniest of knots in the yarn almost at the bottom of the skirt. She made me take the whole dress back and do it again. As you can imagine I was not a happy camper but I learned a lot from that experience. If you want to do a job well, don’t try and hide anything. Miss Duffin was not only blind but she was deaf too; yet she taught us so much.

Being an avid knitter, over the years I have found it extremely difficult and frustrating to have patterns put into braille for my convenience; so when I decided to purchase a braille embosser, I thought it would be well worthwhile to compile several pattern books and try to help other people who, I am sure, have been in the same situation as I have been on many occasions. Therefore, I compiled several books with interesting patterns and designs I had collected over the years. They come from far and wide: as far away as Australia and Scotland and several of these patterns have been designed by friends themselves.

Although I don’t crochet, I feel there is a market for crochet books as well as knitting books, so a couple of friends have kindly helped me to put some books together, in the hope that you will find  something of interest to whet your appetite.

I started this very small brailing business 12 years ago, never thinking I would still be doing it today, All because I decided to purchase a Braille embosser instead of a Perkins brailler. Which, incidentally, was the same price as the embosser since I got the embosser from someone who was trying to find a good home for it.

Marjorie Arnott
         msarnott@q.com

Marjorie’s books are available in braille and electronic formats. To get more information or to request a catalog. Please contact Marjorie with the above e-mail address.

Introduction to Ravelry

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by crystal in Crochet, Knitting, Technocrafting, Tutorials

Ravelry is a very popular website for yarn crafters. You could call it social networking for people who love yarn. Besides the social networking aspect of Ravelry, it’s a nice way to keep track of your projects and find patterns.

I’ve been using Ravelry almost since I started knitting. Navigating the Website with a screen reader can be frustrating at times but most features are accessible. I still find Ravelry well worth the effort to learn even if there are a few unusable areas.

Ravelry has a lot of interesting features. In your notebook, you can add a project and keep track of the needle size and yarn you used. You can also make notes about the project to share with other people. You can search for patterns on Ravelry and narrow your search by different categories: yarn weight, yardage, gauge, free or paid pattern, etc. You can join groups to find people who are doing the same project as you, people who live near you and people who just share the same interests. You can set up a store to share patterns for free or to sell using PayPal. I’ll describe almost all of the features with more detail in later posts.

Today I want to tell you how to sign up for Ravelry and get started with your profile. To sign up for Ravelry you have to request an invitation. Ravelry is still in beta so you can’t just sign up. The best thing about using the sign-up link in the invitation e-mail is you don’t have to deal with a captia.

Directions for Signing Up

1-      Go to www.ravelry.com

2-      Use your screen reader to find the Username form field. Arrow down until you find the words, “Join Now” and press enter.

3-      Find the form field and type your e-mail address. Then tab to the “Send Sign-up Link” button and press enter.

An e-mail with a sign-up link should arrive within minutes. When I signed up years ago it took a few days to get the invitation. Ravelry is much faster with this now.

When you get the e-mail just click on the link inside. This will take you to a page where you can choose your screen name and password. This screen name will be your public persona on Ravelry so don’t pick anything you don’t want everyone to see. Once You’re signed up the next page will list some of the features on Ravelry with tips for getting started. If you want to view or edit your profile just click on your screen name. It’s usually the only heading on the page so it’s easy to find. On your profile page click on the link that says “Edit Your Profile.”

I’ll post more detailed tutorials about individual features of Ravelry soon. Once you’re signed up you can find me on Ravelry as Crystal6207.

Winter Wonderland Ice Skate Ornaments

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Crochet, Guest Posts, Patterns

Contributed by: Paulette Vickery

These miniature ice skates make cute holiday package decorations, lapel pins, or Christmas tree or wreath ornaments.

Materials:
• Small amount of Karon Christmas Glitter worsted weight yarn in gold or silver
• 2 jumbo gold or silver paper clips
• Size H crochet hook.
• Tapestry needle

Gauge: Not important to over all size.

Row 1. With long smooth side of paper clip facing down, attach yarn with a slst to the top right end of paper clip. Chain 1. Work 7 sc over paper clip. Chain 1, turn. 7 sc.

Row 2. Sc dec over first 2 stitches. Sc to end of row. Chain 1, turn. 6, sc.

Row 3. Sc in first 4 scs. Chain 1, turn. 4, sc.

Rows 4-7. Work even. Chain 1, turn at end of each row. 4, sc at end of each row.

Finishing:
At end of row 7, the “toe” end of the ice skate, chain 30. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for other ice skate.

Tie ice skates together in a bow, using “lace” at toe end of each skate for ties.

Paulette vickery is the crocheting and knitting editor for Seeing It Our Way, the braille and large print magazine published by Horizons for the Blind.

Android Yarny

05 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Crochet, Knitting, Technocrafting

I got an android phone last summer, and after swearing at it for a month, I woke up one morning and realized the Lovely Droidia was really a very helpful and groovy … phone? (She’s asleep, so I’m hoping she won’t think we’re not friends.) My abnormal relationships with semi-animate electronic devices aside, I recently found three free Android apps that are accessible and sure to feed any yarn addiction.

Knitters Friend by Moorhen Apps is a portable hook and needle conversion chart. for knitting, it’s got three dropdown lists. the top one is for metric. the middle one is for U.S. needle size. The bottom one is for UK/Canadian. Select a number in one dropdown list, and the others change accordingly. For example, selecting a 5 for the metric box at the top makes 8 appear in the middle U.S. box and 6 in the bottom UK/Canadian box. To change the conversion chart from knitting needles to crochet or crochet steel hook simply hit Menu and the option you’d like. While the dropdown lists themselves are completely accessible, the labels aren’t, so you have to remember that the top box is metric; the middle one, U.S.; and the bottom, UK/Canadian.

County by BobbinsSoft is an electronic row counter. Each time you finish a row, hit Menu and Increase, and each time you rip out half a dozen rows because you skipped one or two vital stitches while caught up in your favorite TV show, hit Menu and Decrease. This app is great when you’re new to yarn crafting and still bitter about having to keep track of rows. It’s also great when you’re working on a really intricate project or when you do a lot of knitting on the go, especially if you’re plodding through patterns with repeats within repeats.

Yarn Shopper by Beekeeper Labs is a skein estimator: supply a few basic project details, and the app gives you a list of possible yarns and the number of skeins or hanks you’ll need to buy. Again, the app is generally accessible, but two of the edit boxes aren’t labeled. From top to bottom, the information to be supplied is name of project (edit box), yards required in pattern (edit box), yarn weight (dropdown list), and fiber content (edit box). The OK and Cancel buttons are at the bottom, and the results appear in nice readable text. To add yarns or get more results, hit Menu and adjust the filter. This is definitely not a good app for someone on a stash diet.

Who knew yarn and technology could come together so beautifully?

Tutorial: Slip Knot

04 Feb 2011 3 Comments

by crystal in Basics, Crochet, Knitting, Tutorials

Slip knots are used in both knitting and crochet. In knitting the slip knot is the first stitch of your cast on just as in crochet the slip knot is the first stitch of your starter chain. The slip knot is made to “slip” so that you can adjust it to fit any needle. It’s also convenient that it doesn’t leave a permanent knot in the yarn if you need to pull it out. The only material you need is yarn to practice with. I always find that instructions make more sense when you are actually attempting them with yarn in hand. There are a lot of steps but I’ve described exactly how I move my hands to make a slip knot. It becomes second nature very quickly. You can do it with your eyes closed.

HOW TO MAKE A SLIP KNOT

Step 1

Hold your right hand flat with your palm facing your body. Your arm should be parallel with the floor.

Step 2

Bend your ring and pinky fingers toward your palm so they will be out of the way. Your index and middle fingers should be pointing to the left. They will be straight and held together.

Step 3

Place a strand of yarn over your index and middle fingers so that the cut end is pointing down. Leave about 6 inches hanging down. You should have the short end of the yarn hanging in front of your fingers and the long end hanging down behind them. The long end will usually be attached to the ball of yarn you’re working from.

Step 4

Keeping the yarn hooked over your right hand fingers, hold the strands of yarn with your left hand so that with your palm facing down the long end of the yarn goes down between your left index and middle fingers and the short end of the yarn is held to the side of your index finger with your thumb. This is easily done by holding both strands of yarn together with your left hand and placing your index finger through the open space between the strands. Make sure not to twist the strands. You should have about two inches of yarn in the space between your left and right hands.

Step 5

Twist your right hand toward your body so that your palm is facing down. Be sure to keep the yarn looped around your index and middle fingers. You may have to bend them slightly to keep from losing the loop of yarn.

Step 6

This is the tricky part. You have to grab the long end of the yarn (The one that is probably attached to the ball) and pull it through the loop you have made on the fingers of your right hand. I have broken this step down into 4 separate parts to make it clearer.

6A: While Still holding the yarn in your left hand as in step 4, spread your right index and middle fingers about an inch apart. The loop of yarn should be positioned on the knuckles in the center of your index and middle fingers.

6B: Use the middle finger of your right hand to hook the top strand of yarn and pull it through the loop of yarn on your right hand by holding it between the tips of your middle and index fingers. The top strand should be the long or “attached” strand. It should be on top both as in on top of the short strand where they cross and above the short strand as positioned in your left hand.

6C: Be sure not to hold the “top” or long strand tightly between your left index and middle fingers. It has to be able to slide. Do be sure to hold the “bottom” or short end tightly to the side of your index finger with your thumb.

6D: Pull the loop snug.

Note: You’ll be able to change the size of your slip knot to fit whatever needle you want by pulling the long strand. If it adjusts by pulling on the short strand you’ve pulled the wrong strand through the loop.

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve made your very first slip knot. How to make a slip knot is the first thing you need to know to start knitting or crocheting. To learn more see the links below.

Tutorial: Casting On

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