Asking Stitchers and Counting Rows

22 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Crochet, General, Knitting, Row Counting, Technocrafting

Blindness brings on the most interesting problems. They’re never the sorts of things sighted people think: I can get dressed, clean my house, go to work, and eat just fine, and I deal with other people’s lack of imagination as routinely though rarely as successfully. The problems tend to be in the little things, in the details, where the devil lies, as some would have it. Row counting is a prime example.

I can knit complex lace work while listening to a literary novel I plan to teach or discuss with one of my English teacher friends, but keeping track of which row I’m on, aside from simply observing the pattern, is not so easy. Commercial row counters don’t really work because they have either no tactile markings or tactile markings that are so small they’re hard to distinguish even with super blind fingers. So for ideas, I turned to my yarn council.

The Blind Stitchers Google group is fantastic. I learn a lot from the other yarn crafters on the list. Tips range from the practical to the truly inspired. Here’s a list of row counter substitutes they came up with during several discussions on the subject.

• Add coins or can tabs to a container or baggy.
• Count out X number of pieces of candy and eat one after every row.
• Make little tears along the edge of an index card.
• Move pegs on a cribbage board or Scrabble tray.
• Place one safety pin in hem of shirt or arm of couch for every row.
• Place strings or safety pins in work to mark repeats or X number of rows.
• Slide (Braille) Tags or can tabs on a ring.
• Slide Beads on a string or bracelet.
• Use Brynolf Pocket Counter (discontinued).
• Use abacus.
• Use cell phone app.
• Use PDA (write down the row you are on, deleting and changing the number with each row).
• Use Scorekeeper from American Printing House for the Blind.

You Do What You Do

17 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by crystal in Crochet, General, Knitting

I love making baby blankets. It’s really gratifying to give a handmade blanket to an expectant or new mother when you know she really appreciates the time you put into it.

Recently, I’ve been brainstorming ideas for two new baby blankets. One is for a friend in Charlotte. This one isn’t too hard; I’m just waiting to find out if it’s a boy or a girl. I have a couple patterns picked out to choose from as soon as I know.

The second one is for my closest cousin who is having a girl this summer. I crocheted a Blanket for her first born 8 years ago. He used his blanket so well that it was eventually full of holes. She patched it for a while but soon it was a hopeless mess. The same thing happened to the blanket I made for her daughter 3 years ago. Now, in hindsight it occurs to me that maybe I shouldn’t have used the exact same yarn and basically the same pattern if I wanted the second one to last longer. One of my favorite sayings is, “You do what you do, and you get what you get.” Basically, you can always expect the same results from the same actions.

This time, I’m trying to be a little smarter about it. I still want to crochet the blanket for the sake of continuity and it can’t take too long to make. I have my own new baby and not as much time these days. I think I’ll double strand the yarn and make the gauge a little tighter. I’ll also give my cousin some special washing instructions.

I spent some time looking for a pattern that might fit all these criteria and it really just takes too long sometimes. I decided it would be much more interesting and fun to make up my own pattern. I have the basic idea in my head already so I’ll probably get started tonight.

I’ll keep track as I go and share the pattern after I give the blanket to my cousin. Maybe this one will last longer but if it doesn’t, that’s ok too. At least I know it will be loved and appreciated.

Ravelry Tutorial: Adding A Project

16 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by crystal in Crochet, Knitting, Technocrafting, Tutorials

One of my favorite Ravelry features is the project page. You can add a project and include details that might be needed later. What size needles did I use on that pair of socks that fit so well? Which pair of needle tips was I using on that sweater before I took them for something else? Which yarn did I use to make that cuddly baby blanket? If you keep track of your projects with Ravelry, all these questions and more can be answered easily.

You can also view other people’s projects on Ravelry. If someone else has made the same sweater you are working on, you can see what they did and read their notes about the project. This can be helpful if you run across a tricky spot or something doesn’t seem quite right. I usually glance through the completed projects before I start something new to see if there are any common problems to watch for.

In this post, I’ll explain how to add a project and share a few tips for adding the details for your project.

Adding A Project

 

1-      Go to Ravelry and log in if you’re not already.

2-      Go to the top of the page and arrow down until you find the link that says, “My Notebook” and press enter.

3-      Use your screen reader to find the link that says ”Add Project” and press enter. You can use the links list or spend some time exploring to find the link. It will be in the list of things under the first heading.

4-      The first page that comes up allows you to name your project and link to Ravelry’s pattern database. First, type the project name into the form field. This can be whatever you want it to be. You will also be able to change it later if you want.

5-      Now select the specific craft for this project.

6-      Check the box before the source for your pattern.

7-      In the next form field, type the name of the pattern you used. Try to make it as close to the actual pattern name as possible. Ravelry is going to do a search so you can link to the pattern in their database.

8-      Type the name of the pattern source in the last form field. You can leave this blank if you want but it will help to find the pattern if it has a generic name.

9-      Press the continue button.

10-   Now you will be on the pattern search page. The name of the pattern you typed on the last page will be automatically filled in the search box. Arrow down past the search button and you will find the list of patterns that have already been pulled up. Click on the link after the correct pattern that says “Choose This Pattern.” If it doesn’t show up right away you can change the text in the search box to try again.

Adding Project Details

 

Once you’ve linked to the pattern in Ravelry’s database you will be on your project page. On this page you can add as many or as few details as you would like. The form fields are self-explanatory. The only part I’ve found inaccessible lately is where you enter the needle size. When I click on “Add Needle” nothing happens. The same thing happens when I click on the “Add Yarn” link but if I save changes and come back to edit details, the form fields for the yarn details show up so don’t click on these more than once unless you want to add more than one yarn. The “Add Needle” link used to work the same way but something has changed. I’ll contact Ravelry to try to get something done about it and I’ll update this post if anything changes. In the meantime, I just make a note of the needle size in the notes section.

You can also link to Ravelry’s yarn database the same way you linked to the pattern database. Enter the name of the yarn in the yarn form field and tab to the next link and press enter. Then click on the name of the yarn you want to link to. This will automatically fill in the details for the yarn. You can add additional information like the color way, how many skeins you used and purchasing details.

One last note is about finding the drop boxes to fill in the start and finish dates for your project. These drop boxes are found after the “Save Changes” button so arrow down to add these details. Also remember that you can leave anything you don’t want to fill out blank.

Ravelry is a very large website so please don’t get discouraged if you have trouble finding what you want at first. Spend some time looking around to learn what there is on each page. I could explain exactly what is on every page but we would be here all day and it would take all the adventure out of it. Have fun exploring and I’ll be back soon with more posts to help.

Born To Knit

15 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by crystal in Crochet, Guest Posts, Knitting

Contributed by Marjorie Arnott

I generally tell people when they ask me how I learned to knit that I was born with a pair of knitting needles in my hands instead of a silver spoon!!        

I was born in a tiny village in the North of Scotland where most of the menfolk worked on fishing boats, etc. so it was very common for the womenfolk of the village to make warm aran style sweaters for their husbands, brothers and uncles who spent a lot of time at sea under very cold conditions.

I could make simple garter stitch scarves or squares by the time I was six years old. However, I went to the Royal Blind School in Edinburgh when i was 13 years old and we had the most fantastic knitting teacher. Up until then I thought I was a relatively good knitter, but Miss Duffin taught me so much. We were having a class end of term exam so as my sister just had a little girl i decided I would make a little dress, my first major project. When Miss Duffin began checking our work she called me over and told me I had done excellent work, but there was one tiny flaw. She took my hand and showed me the tiniest of knots in the yarn almost at the bottom of the skirt. She made me take the whole dress back and do it again. As you can imagine I was not a happy camper but I learned a lot from that experience. If you want to do a job well, don’t try and hide anything. Miss Duffin was not only blind but she was deaf too; yet she taught us so much.

Being an avid knitter, over the years I have found it extremely difficult and frustrating to have patterns put into braille for my convenience; so when I decided to purchase a braille embosser, I thought it would be well worthwhile to compile several pattern books and try to help other people who, I am sure, have been in the same situation as I have been on many occasions. Therefore, I compiled several books with interesting patterns and designs I had collected over the years. They come from far and wide: as far away as Australia and Scotland and several of these patterns have been designed by friends themselves.

Although I don’t crochet, I feel there is a market for crochet books as well as knitting books, so a couple of friends have kindly helped me to put some books together, in the hope that you will find  something of interest to whet your appetite.

I started this very small brailing business 12 years ago, never thinking I would still be doing it today, All because I decided to purchase a Braille embosser instead of a Perkins brailler. Which, incidentally, was the same price as the embosser since I got the embosser from someone who was trying to find a good home for it.

Marjorie Arnott
         msarnott@q.com

Marjorie’s books are available in braille and electronic formats. To get more information or to request a catalog. Please contact Marjorie with the above e-mail address.

So-You-Can-Stick-Your-Fingers-Out Mittens

08 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns

Contributed by Karen Shrade

These are seed stitch mittens with a flap above the palm. I designed them this way because I am lazy. There is no picking up stitches, no button or buttonhole, and no curling problem when you work them flat with two straight needles.

If you want to do them circularly, the numbers don’t change. The top shaping is different, though: you just do a double decrease at the beg and at the halfway point on every other round. Otherwise, it works the same.

I tried them out this weekend and they work quite well. I could slip my fingers out, use a key, or snap my hood, and then retract my fingers quickly into the warmth.

The pattern is written out for women’s mittens, but notes for men’s mittens are included at the bottom.

Materials:
• Worsted weight yarn. I got 2 mittens (easily) out of a 100 g. skein. I used Karen Simply Soft for my first try and then Encore Colorspun for the second. Both worked fine. The colorspun seems a little lighter, though.
• Size 4 (3.5 mm)and 6 (4.5 mm) needles.
• 2 Stitch holders and 2 ring markers

Gauge: Approximately 4 sts to the inch in seed stitch with size 6 needles, but it isn’t critical.

Single Rib Stitch pattern
Row 1: * K1, p1 *.
Row 2: * P1, k1 *.

Seed stitch Pattern
All rows: k1, *p1, k1 *.

With size 4 ndls and worsted weight yarn, cast on 36 sts and single rib for 20 rows (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Change to size 6 ndls and k 1 row, decreasing 1 st at center (35 sts).

Work 9 rows of seed st (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Start the thumb gusset

First row (RS): work 17 sts in seed st, place marker, (p, k, p) into the next st, place marker, work 17 sts in seed st.

Next row: (Keeping in seed stitch pattern) Work 17, slip marker, , p1, k1, p1 slip marker, work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, inc in the first and last stitch between markers (keeping seed stitch pattern), work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, k1, (p1, k1) twice, slip marker, work pattern to end.

Continue in this manner till you have 13 sts between the markers. Then work one wrong side row even.

Thumb:

First row (RS): Work 18, slip 11 sts to a holder, work to end.

Next row: work 17, p2 tog, work to end.

Start the flap:

First row for right mitten (RS): Work 19, slip next 15 sts to another holder, turn and cast on 17 stitches, k1. You have 37 sts on the needle.

First row for left mitten (RS): k1, slip 15 stitches to a holder, turn and cast on 17, seed st to end.

For both mittens: At each end of the cast on section you will work 2 sts together. This keeps it nice and neat.
For the left mitten, work 19, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, k1.
For the right mitten, k1, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, finish in seed stitch.

Now, work on these 35 sts in seed stitch. When 20rows are complete, place markers on each side of the center purl stitch.

Top of mitten

Dec row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, (p1, k1) to 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1; Slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, k2 tog, (p1, k1) to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1: 4 sts decreased.
Dec row 2: K2, (p1, k1) to last st before marker, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1.
Dec row 3: K1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to 3 sts before marker, p2 tog, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to last 3 sts, p2 tog, k1
Dec Row 4: Work in seed stitch even, k1, (p1, k1) to end.
Rep these four rows 3 times: 11 sts rem.

Last row: (K2 tog) twice, sl1, k2 tog, psso, (k2 tog) twice: 5 sts.

Cut yarn and thread through these sts, pulling up tight and fastening off.
Now, go back to the flap stitches. Put them back onto a size 6 needle, and join yarn. Work 14 rows of seed stitch, this time starting and ending with a p stitch. Bind off loosely. Sew the flap to the inside of the mitten. Then sew the side seam of the mitten.

Return to the 11 thumb stitches, and work 12 rows. You will start and end with P1. Last thumb row: K2 tog twice, sl1, K2 tog, Psso, K2 tog twice: 5 sts. Cut yarn and thread through these stitches, pulling tight. Sew seam.

Notes for a Man’s mitten

For a man’s mitten, cast on 40 stitches and rib for 25 rows.

Dec 1 st at center of next row for 39 stitches. You will work the mitten the same way as above.

Thumb gusset will inc to 15 sts and the thumb will be worked on 13 sts.

The flap is worked on 17 sts.

You have to work dec rows 1 and 2 again for the top shaping.

This mitten fit my husband.

I hope you like the mittens.

Introduction to Ravelry

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by crystal in Crochet, Knitting, Technocrafting, Tutorials

Ravelry is a very popular website for yarn crafters. You could call it social networking for people who love yarn. Besides the social networking aspect of Ravelry, it’s a nice way to keep track of your projects and find patterns.

I’ve been using Ravelry almost since I started knitting. Navigating the Website with a screen reader can be frustrating at times but most features are accessible. I still find Ravelry well worth the effort to learn even if there are a few unusable areas.

Ravelry has a lot of interesting features. In your notebook, you can add a project and keep track of the needle size and yarn you used. You can also make notes about the project to share with other people. You can search for patterns on Ravelry and narrow your search by different categories: yarn weight, yardage, gauge, free or paid pattern, etc. You can join groups to find people who are doing the same project as you, people who live near you and people who just share the same interests. You can set up a store to share patterns for free or to sell using PayPal. I’ll describe almost all of the features with more detail in later posts.

Today I want to tell you how to sign up for Ravelry and get started with your profile. To sign up for Ravelry you have to request an invitation. Ravelry is still in beta so you can’t just sign up. The best thing about using the sign-up link in the invitation e-mail is you don’t have to deal with a captia.

Directions for Signing Up

1-      Go to www.ravelry.com

2-      Use your screen reader to find the Username form field. Arrow down until you find the words, “Join Now” and press enter.

3-      Find the form field and type your e-mail address. Then tab to the “Send Sign-up Link” button and press enter.

An e-mail with a sign-up link should arrive within minutes. When I signed up years ago it took a few days to get the invitation. Ravelry is much faster with this now.

When you get the e-mail just click on the link inside. This will take you to a page where you can choose your screen name and password. This screen name will be your public persona on Ravelry so don’t pick anything you don’t want everyone to see. Once You’re signed up the next page will list some of the features on Ravelry with tips for getting started. If you want to view or edit your profile just click on your screen name. It’s usually the only heading on the page so it’s easy to find. On your profile page click on the link that says “Edit Your Profile.”

I’ll post more detailed tutorials about individual features of Ravelry soon. Once you’re signed up you can find me on Ravelry as Crystal6207.

Clover Rib Socks

07 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Knitting, Patterns, working in the Round

Sock knitting is my thing. It’s the heel. I can’t get over how magical it is. So I invented a heel, which I call the Petca heel, after a possible patron saint of knitting. Then I discovered it’s very similar to Fleegle’s Heel and concluded that great minds think alike. These cuff-down socks feature that heel.

The stitch pattern is clover rib. It’s a 2×3 rib with a mock cable that reminds me of links in a chain.

Materials
• 2 50-g balls of Comfy Soft Sport
• 2 2.5 mm circs
• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

2×2 Ribbing
Rnd 1 and all rnds: * K2, p2 *.

Clover Rib Stitch
Rnd 1: * p1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1 *.
Rnd 2: * P1, k3, p1 *.
Rnd 3: * P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1 *.
Rnds 4-6: * P1, k3, p1 *.

Socks

make 2.

Cast on 52 sts and join to work in the round.

Cuff

Work 9 rnds of 2×2 ribbing.

Knit 1 rnd.

Next rnd: P2 tog, (* k3, p2; rep to end of ndl, ending k1) 2x: 50 sts.

Work 5 reps of Clover Rib stitch or more if desired.

Petca Heel

The heel increases are worked between the second and third and between the second to last and third to last pattern repeats of theClover Rib stitch. Any increase will do.

Rnd 1: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 2: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 3: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, yo, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 4: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 5: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, yo, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, yo, p1 (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 6: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k1, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 7: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, p1, k1, yo, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k1, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 8: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k2, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 9: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, k2, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k2, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 10: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k2, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k3, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 11: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 12: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.

One repeat of Clover Rib stitch is complete, and the heel increase of Rnds 11 and 12 is identical to that in Rnds 1 and 2.

Continue as established. The increase in Rnds 13 and 14 is like the one in Rnds 3 and 4. the increase in rnds 15 and 16 is like the one in Rnds 5 and 6. Instead of working 6 pattern repeats as between increases, you are now working 8 repeats.

Stop when you’ve increased to 62 sts, finishing with an even rnd, row 4 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Heel Turn

Row 1: K4, skp, k1, turn.
Row 2: P to end of Ndl 1, p4, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, k1, turn.
Row 4: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, p1, turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 till there are 12 sts between the gap and the beg/end of rnd.

Row 5: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, turn.
Row 6: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, turn.

Rep Rows 5 and 6 till 52 sts rem. Each ndl should hold 12 sts on the heel side of the gap and 14 sts on the instep side.

Rnd 7: K to 1 st before the gap, m1 (by inserting the rhn under the horizontal strand between the st just worked and the one about to be worked and knitting through the back of the loop), skp, k to last 11 sts on Ndl 1, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k to 1 st before gap on Ndl 2, m1, k2 tog, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 8: K15, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k15.

You have finished the heel and are ready to start working the foot with Rnd 1 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Foot.

Rnd 1: K15, p1, (clover rib), p1, k15.
Rep Rnd 1 till there are 17, 18 or 19 (small, medium, or large) reps of clover rib stitch down the ankle and instep, starting at the ribbing.

Toe

Place markers after St # 8, 17, 34, and 43. There are invisible markers at the end of each ndl. In all, there are 6 markers.

Rnd 1 and all odd rnds: K.
Rnd 2: K to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x, k to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x: 48 sts.
Rnd 4: * k2 tog, k to marker, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rnd 6: * K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rep Rnds 3-6 till 6 sts rem.

Break yarn, draw tail through live sts, and pull to close hole.

Weave in ends, and wear with style.

Diagonal Stripes Afghan

06 Feb 2011 1 Comment

by Ana in Colors, Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns

Contributed by Mary Nettleton
marynet@centurytel.net

This afghan had its beginning with a project that my knitting group did for an auction. The group afghan was made in 4 colors with two-color blocks. Then I started to wonder how else the 2-color squares could be arranged. Our grand son was graduating from highschool at about the same time and he wanted black, red and white. I absolutely and unequivocally never give a high-school graduate anything in white so 2 colors were what he got.

the finished afghan made from simple granny squares has bold diagonal stripes. For a similar tactile effect, find a Color B yarn that is also of a different texture from Color A. The project itself is very portable. As I remember it took me about 1 1/2 hours to make 1 square.

Materials:
• 8 skeins each of 2 colors, Plymouth Encore Chunky, Wool-ease Chunky, or any chunky yarn. Designate 1 color as A and the second color as B.
• Needle size: 11 or 13. The size needle is governed by the density of the fabric you prefer.
• Yarn needle for sewing squares together and safety pins or some other convenient method of marking the B half of the squares.

Skill level: easy.

Gauge: not important

Afghan Square:
Make 30

With A, Cast on 3 sts. Leave a generous tail for sewing.

Row 1: Inc1 st in first St, K to end).

Repeat this row until there are 42 sts on the needle.

Break A and pick up B.

Row 2: K1, K2tog, K to end of row.

Repeat this row till 3 sts rem.

Last row: Sl1, K2tog, Pass slip st over and fasten off.

Leave a generous tail for sewing, and place a safety pin near the corner to mark side B of the square.

Assembly;:

The afghan is 5 squares across and 6 down. Find a place where the squares can be laid out and sewn together. A bed works well for this. Start in the lower left-hand corner of the bed.

1. Beginning at the left edge of the bed, position Square 1 so that half A lines up with the lower left-hand corner of the bed.
2. Position square 2 to the right of Sq 1 so that side B lines up with side B of the first square. With one of the B tails, and a yarn needle, pass a thread back and forth in the edge sts.
3. Position Sq 3 to the right of sq 2 with the A sides lining up. Sew as before, using color A tails.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 one more time to attach squares 4 and 5.
5. Returning to the left edge of the afghan, position Sq 6 above sq 1 with the B sides together. Sew as before, using color B tails.
6. Position square 7 to the right of Sq 6, ( with the A sides together and sew in place, using color A tails.
7. Position Sq 8 to the right of sq 7, with B sides together, and sew in place, using color B tails.
8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 one more time to attach Squares 9 and 10.
9. Repeat Steps 1-8 until all 30 squares have been sewn together.

If you sew and nip and tuck the ends as you go, it will be much less trouble later. How do I know this? Of course, if all else fails, ask for sighted help with the positioning or the ends.

Knitting Small Circumferences with Two Circular Needles

06 Feb 2011 2 Comments

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Tutorials, working in the Round

Contributed by Paulette Vickery

I love knitting small circumferences, like the crowns of hats or the thumbs of mittens, with 2 circular needles rather than a set of double-pointed needles. Once you get the hang of it, the technique is much easier, less complicated, and not at all prone to having stitches fall off the needles. Plus you never have a little needle slip into the innards of a couch or roll merrily across the floor, managing to stay just out of reach. I’ll explain how to use two circular needles to knit small circumferences with a simple set of step-by-step instructions that will remove all of the confusion from the learning process.

But first, take time to settle into your favorite knitting chair with a glass of your favorite libation at hand. Being comfortable while learning is just as important as the learning process itself. I know that I learn best when I am relaxed and comfortable. Now, let’s do it!

Learning the Process

So that we are all working on the same project, let’s use a 16-inch (41 cm) circular needle to make a simple hat. It doesn’t matter which one. Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for, Join to work in the round, make the brim and the body, then start the decreases for the top. When you get to the part of the hat where you have to use double-pointed needles because the opening is too small to continue on 1 circ, you are ready to start working with the second circular needle. Here is what you need to do in order to use 2 circulars instead of double-pointed needles:

First, divide your stitches onto 2 needles. I like to have 1 needle longer than the other so I can tell where the beginning of the round is. Let’s say that your original needle is the shorter needle and the second one is the longer needle. When you finish putting half of your stitches on the longer needle, the short needle, the one with the working yarn coming out of the first stitch, will be on the right, and the long needle, the one with the other half of the stitches will be on the left.

Now let go of both of the points of the short (right-hand) needle. Just slide those stitches to the middle of the cable so they won’t go anywhere.

next grab both ends of the long needle (the one on your left). First, take hold of the closest tip. This will be your left-hand needle. Then take hold of the other tip, which is probably dangling toward the floor. Pull it toward you around the hat so it is in your right hand. This is now your right-hand needle.

Let’s pause for a moment to think about what we’ve got.
• You have the short needle in the back. The stitches you are not working right now are centered on the cable, and both points are pushed somewhere out of the way. The working yarn is hanging down from the cable on your right side. It’s not near the point of the needle because you pushed your stitches to the center of the cable to keep them safe.
• You also have your long needle. It’s now in front. It’s your current working needle and the needle at the beginning of the round. You have the point with the stitches on it in your left hand, and you have the empty point in your right hand.

It’s time to start knitting. Slip the point of your right hand needle into the first stitch on your left-hand needle like you usually do. To keep things simple, let’s say you’re working a knit stitch. Pretend the yarn coming from the cable of the shorter needle in the back is coming out of the needle that you are using, and just knit the stitch as usual, being sure to give the working yarn a little extra tug afterward to make the stitches nice and snug and to avoid an unwanted gap where the needles meet. Now the yarn really is coming out of the stitch on the needle that you are using, so continue knitting and work all of the stitches on the long needle.

Repeat the process. Only this time the current working needle will be the short one, and you will be working the second half of the round. So the steps are these:

• Drop both points of the long needle and center the stitches in the middle of the cable.
• Pick up both of the points of the new short needle, the one that was In the back, which is now on your left, because you have shifted things around a bit.
• Push the stitches up to the tip of the closest needle, which is now your left-hand needle.
• Pull the other end of the needle around so it is now your right-hand needle.
• Work all of the stitches on the short needle.

And you are ready to do it again. This time, you will have the long needle as the current working needle, and when you begin knitting the stitches on that needle, you will be starting a new round. Simple.

Starting a Project with Two Circs

If you decide to work the entire hat using 2 circular needles, or if you are knitting a miniature hat or some other small project, here is how to begin a project with 2 circular needles. Remember to use 2 different needle lengths to make it easier to recognize the beginning of the round:

Using the shorter needle, cast on the number of stitches you need plus 1 extra stitch. Then slide all of the stitches to the other end of the needle so that the first stitch cast on is nearest the tip.

Beginning with the first stitch you cast on, slip the first half of the stitches onto the longer needle. You will have one half of the stitches on the short needle and the other half of the stitches on the long needle, but they will still not be joined to form a circle.

To close the circle, slide both sets of stitches to the opposite end of the needles. Be sure the stitches are all facing the same direction. You can do this by placing your hands at opposite ends of the work and moving them toward each other to make sure there are no twists. The first stitch cast on and the extra last stitch cast on are beside each other near the needle tips. The tips are lying side-by-side close enough together for you to carefully lift the extra stitch from the short needle across the gap to the long needle.

So now, the first 2 stitches on the long needle are the first stitch you cast on and the extra stitch. Using only the tips of the long needle, knit these 2 stitches together to join the circle and get rid of the extra stitch. For a really smooth join, knit those 2 stitches together using both the working yarn and the tail held together as a single strand of yarn. Then still using both points of the long needle and only the working yarn, continue working across the stitches on that needle to finish the first half of the round.

Next, just like we did before, drop the points of the long needle, sliding the stitches to the middle of the cable to keep them safe. Then pick up both points of the short needle, and work across the other half of the stitches on that needle to finish the first round.

It really isn’t hard. After you do a few rounds, you will probably wonder why you ever used those pesky double-pointed needles in the first place, and you will use your favorite libation to celebrate your new skill!

This article was originally published in Seeing It Our Way, a Braille magazine published by Horizons for the Blind, and has been reprinted with minor editing by permission of the author, who is one of the magazine’s contributors.

the Bag Keeper

06 Feb 2011 Leave a comment

by Ana in Guest Posts, Knitting, Patterns, working in the Round

Contributed by Chris Cooke

Bag Keeper

Storing plastic grocery bags can be a puzzle. They need to be out of the way, but they also need to be handy so we can use them to line our waste baskets.

The bag keeper is an elongated pouch with a loop at the top and a small hole at the bottom. Use the loop to hang it on the back of a door. Roll up the plastic bags and push them in through the top. Then when you need one, pull it out through the hole at the bottom.

Makes a nice gift.

Materials

• 2 50G balls worsted weight cotton
• 1 Size US 8 16-inch circular needle and either DPN’s in the same size or another circular when decreasing
• 1 stitch marker
• small amount of narrow elastic for hanger

Gauge: 4.5 sts/inch in stockinette stitch.

Beginning at the top:

Cast on 32 sts. Join for knitting in the round, and work ribbing for four rounds–either k1-p1 or k2-p2.

Increase Rounds

Next rnd (eyelets): * K4, yo *: 40 sts.

Next 4 rnds: Increase 4 sts evenly each round by knitting into the front and back of the stitch. The last round will have 56 sts.

Body

Next: K around for 18 inches from eyelet rnd.

Decrease rounds:

Rnd 1: * K5, k2tog * around: 48 sts.
Rnd 2: * K4, ssk * around: 40 sts.
Rnd 3: * K3, k2tog * around: 32 sts.
Rnd 4: * K2 ssk * around: 24 sts.

Next 4 rnds: Ribbing as for top.

Bind off loosely in knit.

Finishing:
• Weave in ends.
• Thread a ribbon through the yo’s at the top of the bag keeper if you like.
• Knit or sew an elastic loop for hanging.

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